Mushroom Lover's Marinara

Place the porcini mushrooms in a pot, cover with the stock and bring to a simmer. Reconstitute to tender, then remove with a slotted spoon and chop; reserve with the liquid. Heat a tablespoon of EVOO in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the guanciale and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, add the remaining EVOO, a few turns of the pan, and add the cremini mushrooms to brown, 10 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, marjoram or oregano, chile, salt and pepper, stir 1 to 2 minutes, then add the tomato paste and stir a minute more. Add the marsala or wine and the reserved porcini stock, minus a few spoonfuls where grit may have settled. Add the porcini, guanciale or bacon and the tomatoes (break up tomatoes a bit); stir in the passata and, a few leaves of basil and simmer over low heat 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally to thicken and combine flavors. Cool and store for a make-ahead meal. Reheat the sauce, covered, over medium heat, stirring occasionally. To serve, bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta, add salt and cook the pasta to al dente, reserving a cup of starchy cooking water just before draining. Return the pasta to the hot pot and add the butter and half of the sauce; toss to combine, adding some starchy cooking water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Serve the pasta in shallow bowls with the remaining mushroom marinara on top; garnish with lots of cheese.