Twice-Baked Potatoes

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425 °. Poke 4 large russet potatoes all over with a fork; rub with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Bake directly on oven rack until very soft when squeezed and skins are crisp, 50 –60 minutes. Let cool just until you can hold them. Using a serrated knife, slice potatoes in half lengthwise and scoop flesh into a medium bowl. Add 1/2 cup sour cream, 1/4 cup unsalted butter, 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives, and 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon (if desired); season generously with salt and pepper. Divide among 4 potato skin halves, piling gloriously high—don't pack too tightly. (And what about the leftover skins? We say add butter and salt and snack on them.) Increase oven temperature to 450 °. Bake potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet until filling is puffed and browned in spots, 20 –25 minutes. No need to stop at chives. Add bacon, cheddar, chili—why hold back now?